This page is dedicated to those individuals who take pride in what they have accomplished and want to share the fruit of their labors with the world. If you decide you want to list your project here at AAAWelder, simply email your photos and/or any information you want posted to aaawelder@yahoo.com and I will list it here with the other die-hards.
You can't tell by looking at this picture but, there is a lot of builders' pride being restrained by the fastenings holding this unit together. The completion of this welder was a crowning accomplishment considering I had no plan nor schematic to aide in assembling what you see before you. All I had was the Idea.
It took two frustrating builds before I finally got the third unit welding properly. Couple this with some creative thinking about housing the unit and "presto", I had a welder that not only worked but, wasn't hard to look at either.
The construction of this unit was relatively fast. Once you get started and focus on the task, you're burning rods and patting yourself on the back.
As far as the housing is concerned, I reccommend spending the time neccessary to produce the best work your ability can muster, bragging rights run deep!
Your work will speak for itself!
This is a prime example of a well built 110 volt welder and, given the fact that this craftsman gathered the parts and built this welder in 2 days, is remarkable to say the least. This unit was constructed by Luke Heckrodt. Thanks for the pics Luke.
Looking at the internal assembly, you can see that the components are well placed: the transformers are turned away from each other to minimize maverick inductance, the fan placed to circulate cooling air between them and, the wires grouped into a wiring harness and secured.
The completed unit is a work of art demonstrating that determination coupled with patience is the calculus of masters. Great Job Luke!!!
Someone has finally answered AAAWelders' most popular question: "Can I use 3 transformers?". This design was submitted by Chief Redelk of the Many Nations Tribe and this is his description:
"The 3 way switch (S2) only uses the secondary of T-3 as a resistance to drop the supply voltage to the T-1 and T-2 primaries which supply voltage and induce amperage for the ground and the electrode. I have included a hot box (booster) that will increase the output voltage and therefore the output amperage of this welder. It can be cooled with it's own fan and, It can have an on/off switch. It can be plugged into an extention cord but, since I have hot plugs already installed on my welder, I would simply plug it into the back of my welder. I recomend that you ONLY use the booster a few minutes at a time for fear It may over load the unit. But, for those few instances where a little more heat is needed, the booster can be employed and T-4 will then be in series with the T1 and T2 secondaries. T-4 should not need much wire. I would say 10 turns on the secondary should be about right for almost 10 more volts. You may choose to use bigger wire on T-4 but, since #10 is already in the circuit, it will not be to your advantage, unless you choose to use all 3 trannies and go to a bigger wire and less wraps on each tranny. Have a great day and KEEP me posted. Bless you."
Chief Redelk and I share the same concern when it comes
to keeping these transformers in phase with each
other. Chief Redelk states:
"WHEN you connect the booster box it needs to be IN PHASE with the
other two trannies in the primary side. To do so just make sure that the extra
tranny is connected to a breaker NOT next to the one that the welder is on, just
skip a breaker. TWO side by side will be out of phase and that is HOW we get 220vac.
IT may be that IF all three seccondaries are not in phase
the booster box could actually reduce the overall output. I am not for sure of this but it
sounds correct to me. I have not run experiments but IF the two trannies go positive and the
3rd tranny goes Negative, I can see where that May NOT add but subtract the output vac."
Power to the transformers must come from the same leg of the mains feed to remain in
phase . Two seperate circuits so as not to overload one
breaker.
Chief Redelk shares a means to vary the output voltage to 3 heat settings:
"YOU ARE a blessing to so many, THANKS, I have my booster box plugged into the back of my welder. remember I made the hot plugs for my grinder and etc right on the welder itself. IF the plug wires gets reversed the box takes away instead of adding voltage to the secondaries. I know that for sure, testing proves its. SO by switching the plug (easy to do) I can have a 26 volt welder or a 46 volt welder and NOT rewire any thing. SO since we are working on the primaries alone this can be achieved by a flip of a switch, Double throw double pole. WE are getting there. EXCEPT I also like the way it works at 38 volts without the booster box at all, 26 volts may be usless. Have not determinde that yet. BUT so far I now have 3 settings, 26, 38, 46 all with the booster box added in this way or that way or not at all. SO I will keep my brain in gear for a while longer. Have a great day, chief."
Chief Redelk is available for questions and comments at:
E-mail Chief Redelk
Thanks Chief!
Mr. Marsh built the welder and has provided alternate construction methods:
"Thank you for your instructions for the welder, mine is completed and working fine. I have the following suggestions to pass along for possible inclusion for your readers information:
1. fuse each XFRMR primary with a 15 amp fuse, Radio Shack, $1.50 ea.
2. use parallel runs of smaller size wire for secondary windings, cheaper,
easier to wind, packs better. i.e.: 2X14ga. for 10ga.
3. check local electric motor shops for insulated motor winding wire, forms
easier, allows more turns in the available space. about $3.00/lb new.
4. use three XFRMR at various winding turns to provide easy voltage adjustment
(35- 45 volts) of power output.
5. house circuits are usually 120v/20amp max, they are wimpy for a welder,look
for an HVAC 220 supply, or use 2ea 20 amp circuits, or an oven or dryer outlet.
It is my understanding that the magnetic shunts found on MOT/XFRMR,s is a current
limiting appliance safety item, they can be removed if precautions are taken to
prevent overload.
My best regards, thanks for the great ideas, keep them coming!
CW Marsh SLC, UT."
Mr. Marsh is available for questions and comments at:
E-mail Mr. Marsh
Thanks Mr. Marsh!